Koruldi Ridge

My first fantastic hike in amazing Georgia! I won’t forget it in a hurry as firstly it was pretty brutal involving a 2100m ascent from Mestia. Secondly the views at the top of this ascent were just incredible and totally justified the effort in reaching. 

Ive always said hiking mountains isnt fun, however the reward can be spectacular, and it really was on this occasion, so so much to my pleasure! 

Mestia is located in Georgias Svanetti region of the Caucasus Mountains. It’s a failry large mountain town that is popular with tourists, so super easy to reach via minibus and taxi from the main cities of Georgia. (aka death bus!) I used Mestia as a central hub to do many hikes over the course of a week, this being one of the first on an exceptionally clear and warm day. (around 27 degrees)

The region of Svaneti is a medieval marvel. It has seen its fair share of invaders over the centuries including Persians, Mogols and Turks so the Svans, a sub group of Georgians defended their lands with tall stone towers knows as koshi, or Svan towers. Tall towers to see invaders. These towers are incredibly old (Between 9^th and 12^th century) and mostly well preserved and give Mestia and villages in the Svaneti their unique style.

This hike up to Koruldi Ridge is an extention to quite a popular tourist attraction, Koruldi Lakes. Koruldi lakes is located on north western side of Mestia and can be reached by hiking or by Jeep/4X4 taxi. It’s a proper beaten track road into the mountains so techinically you could cheat and get a jeep all the way up to the lakes and then tackle the ridge on foot. However what fun is this! I believe epic views are best when earnt and is one of the reasons hiking is such a great activity. Koruldi lakes is extremely popular due to the mountain views, reflections in the lakes and also the views of the majestic towering twin peaked mountain “Ushba” which domainates the sky standing at 4710m. Koruldi lakes are situated at 2740m located, where the ridge is 3300m so it requires another 560m ascent from the lakes.

The total ascent from Mestia to Koruldi Ridge is 2100m and 7 miles in total so although it is possible to ascend to the ridge and back to Mestia in a day, it would be a very long and hard day. So I’ve classed this as a 2 day hike with a perfect wild camp position near the lakes with fantastic 360 degree mountain views. Perfect to crash after watching a hopefully fab sunset from the ridge.

The first part of the hike is up to the Mestia Cross on Tshakazagari mountain north of Mestia. It towers above the town but is deceiving, as its higher than it looks, and involves quite a steep ascent via woodland paths, open pastures and some roads, Salvation is at hand at the cross (as well as some epic views across pastures to the north) as a little refreshment café/hut is found there. Drinks only though, so make sure you bring enough food. On the rather humid walk up to the cross I met two lovely hikers (Evelyn and Floor) doing a 7 day section of the Transcaucasian Trail from Chuberi to Usguli trail. Having just wild camped up by the lakes they were descending to Mestia for a well deserved break after a few days wild from Chuberi. I would bump into them a few more times during the adventures.

The whole trail is marked with white and red rectangles as you ascend to the cross. Reminds me of hiking in the European Alps, as do some of the signposts. Maybe the same outdoor teams come to Georgia to set up the tourist/mountain path networks!

From the cross it’s a really easy route to the lakes, a long winding track (that the 4X4s use) that slowly climbs north west up the mountain. It’s a long grind up and is very exposed but on a clear day like I had the views are just constantly awesome in all directions especially straight ahead as the twin peak of mount Ushba peaks above the red ridge of Koruldi.

Eventually you arrive at the lakes, perhaps a tad underwhelming as an actual view themselves, but if the weather is calm can have some wonderful reflections of the surrounding mountains. (not when I was there unfortunately..i mean you cant have everything!)

I chose a camping spot just to the east of the lakes as I wasn’t sure if more people would be camping and I prefer the relative quiet spots. My spot was just incredible with the dominating mountains in the background. As far as I was aware looking at multiple weather forecasts the morning looked good for an epic sunrise so I positioned my doorway looking eastwards!

After a quick bit of lunch I unpacked all my heavy items from my backpack to leave in the tent so I could head light up onto the ridge. The time was around 4pm. With sunset around 7.30pm (Early September) it was perfect timing to head onto the ridge for some early evening mountain views.

There are 2 options for getting up the the ridge. The 4x4 track carrys on for a mile to the foot of the ridge, or you can head up the path on the western side straight up which is steeper but quicker. Either way both bring you to the base of the ridge section which is a steep climb over very loose stones which is trickier than it looks. Great care needs to be taken especially on the higher sections where the stones become more loose scree and very unstable. You could easily loose foothold and start a quick uncontrolled slide.

Once you navigate the scree you ascend onto the ridge itself which is a very exposed (but not too fear inducing on height) section to light scramble. Before you even notice the drops you will be absolutely blown away by the views. With sunset lighting the glaciated valley and the surrounding peaks it was an absolute treat and just a fantastic reward for the long ascent. Usbha is just immense. Its twin peaks just tower high above you with its glacier just running straight into a huge valley of rocks and peaks.  I think this was some of the best close up mountain views I’ve seen on any of my hikes, truly epic.

As I climbed onto the ridge a trail runner was coming down the steepest section. Sergi, a Russian chap from Mazeri who was trail running from Mazeri to Mestia. He was having a bit of a tough time with the ridge scrambling so after a hello, chat and a few stupid photos, I helped him chose the best and safest path down the ridge, as it would seem the descent down the steep sections was a tad jittery for his nerves! Once I watched him get to the bottom and start running again, I could sit and relax and watch the sunlight slowly creep across the mountains and into the far distance. Perfect!

As the red light across the mountains faded and dark descended, I carefully lowered myself back down the ridge, even steeper coming down so great care was required. After an hour or so it was pretty much darkness as I returned to my tent for the evening. Not a single other person had decided to camp for the evening, so it was just myself, the mountains and the stars. What I didn’t know (even though I had checked all the forecasts!) was that rain and thunder was due in the area in the morning. And sure enough that was the case!

As I woke up just before 6am, instead of a beautiful sunrise, dark clouds and a rumble of thunder greeted me. I’ve never packed up my camping setup so quick in all my life and rapidly sprinted down the mountain. Watching lightening hit the next ridge line across multiple times as the clouds were heading my way was a really scary experience! Luckily for me an Israeli couple had decided to camp out in their 4x4 halfway down back to the Mestia cross. I reached them just before the full force of hail and thunder reached and was extremely grateful for a lift all the way back to Mestia. Such luck to meet them and we enjoyed an hour or so at the café Erti Kava in Mestia (in the sun I may add) and of course got them both a coffee to say thanks!

Despite the frantic morning I can reflect on a fantastic day in the Caucasus Mountains. One of the best mountain hiking days I’ve experienced. If you ever find yourself in Georgia and Mestia and you find a day of good weather then I would strongly recommend heading to the ridge. It’s a tough day so good fitness is required but its well worth it. Just check as many weather forecasts as possible. Post hike I did learn from some other hikers I met that Meteoblue is the most accurate service!

Any questions on this route, feel free to ask.