Luskentyre Beach & Beinn Dhubh

Isle of Harris, Scotland


The trail:

  • Location: Isle of Harris, Scotland
  • Categories: Spring / Summer / Autumn / Marine west coast / Highland / Mountain / Foothill / Coastal / Islands / Rural / Beach /
  • Duration: 5 Hours
  • Distance: 7 miles

Walking the trail:

  • Summary: Spectacular beaches with beautiful mountain landscapes make for a rural coastal mountain adventure unique to Scotland's Outer Hebrides. A tough day out and best walked on a fine day for stunning and rewarding views. If you're lucky you might see an Eagle or two!



This year's Scotland road trip took me over to the Outer Hebrides islands of Lewis and Harris, an area I have been wanting to visit for a while due to its unique wildlife and stunning remote landscapes. For this trip I had the pleasure of being joined by my good friend and veteran hiker Emma who I've shared many adventures with, from the Isle of Skye trail in 2014 and Sweden's Kungsleden the following year. Luckily it was her idea to visit Luskentyre (famed for its spectacular beaches) which inspired this awesome but pretty tough trail. A large section of this hike is pathless so good fitness and navigation is required. However, I would strongly advise only doing this hike on a day with clear good weather forecast. It's a must for the views. Obviously, navigation experience should be required on any day in mountain terrain.

This 7-mile route starts at one of the small layby parking areas that are located just off the main A859 road turning that turns you right (if coming from Tarbert)  to head down to Luskentyre beach. Approx. post code is HS3 3HN.

This starting point allows a few miles to enjoy a flat walk along this road. (you can walk along the beach if the tide is low so check the local tide times) If you walk in the summer season there should be a little honesty cake stand a mile or so down so make sure you take some cash (£5-10) to enjoy some very tasty cake options.

After 2.5 miles you arrive at the main beach of Luskentyre. I'm never been the biggest beach lover in terms of hiking and landscapes (I prefer the more rugged coastlines) but hands down this beach is something else. There's a reason its photographed so much.  White sands, clear blue sea and a backdrop of mountains gives it that rural grandeur I've never seen before.

Take your time to appreciate the views because it now gets tough as you start to ascend north east up to Beinn Dhubh standing at a modest 506m. This is no high mountain but it's a tough ascent. Its pathless so you have to route find yourself across dense and sometimes wet vegetation. Some parts can get quite steep on the ascent but the vegetation makes for fairly grippy solid footing. (albeit care needs to be taken as some bits are deeper than they look!)  It may be a tough ascent but every stop for rest was rewarded with the views behind across the bay. The higher you get the better the views become. This is the beauty of the hard work; you know you're seeing views that most people would dream off. One of my favourite views was that of a Golden Eagle flying directly overhead us near the summit. An absolutely fantastic moment for me as I hurriedly swapped out my camera wide angle lens to my telephoto lens. The huge wingspan of the birds is so impressive soaring across the sky.

Finally, we arrived at a big pile of stones and trig point at 506m. The 360 degree views up here are superb. The late afternoon/early evening sun was now making an impact on the landscape across the beach and bay and across the mountain range in the north. Pretty breath-taking stuff and definitely one of my favourite summit hiking moments to date. A quick Iru-bru (when in Scotland) and snack break and the trail continues south east to the next mini peak of Beinn Losgaintir. (436m) It's a downhill and small uphill stretch so fairly easy, as is the terrain. Easy walking in comparison to the ascent up Beinn Dhubh. From here the trail starts to cross granite terrain which gets denser as you start descending the final stretch. At this point the sun was starting to set in the horizon giving some even more incredible views, but also making the descent a bit trickier, as route finding down the granite terrain takes some care and attention for safe descent. Slow and careful is what is required as some sections can get quite steep with lots of uneven and slippery rocks and vegetation.

Eventually you will see a small river flow to your right side from where you came from above so head towards and stick to its left side which will bring you back to the main road via a small gate. If you're parked on the road you will have spotted your transport at the top of the descent anyway to help knowing you're never too far!

We arrived back at the car just as the sun had set. We couldn't have timed it any better. To experience that trail in good, calm, sunny weather and during sunset hours was an absolute treat. If you ever visit Luskentyre and want to challenge yourself then you must go up Beinn Dhubh at the very least! It's amazing. Easily my second favourite hike in Scotland so far. Only second to walking and wild camping up Suilven, but that mountain is just extra extra special! 

If you're interested in walking this route, feel free to message for more information.

GPX route also available.

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